How To Breed
Clownfish
Clownfish Breeding Basics
In this comprehensive guide, we will take you step-by-step through a carefully tested and proven process, one that we have personally refined and successfully implemented. Our goal is to equip you with the knowledge and techniques needed to achieve your own success as a dedicated hobbyist breeder. Whether you’re just starting out or looking to improve your breeding results, this guide is designed to support you every step of the way and assumes that you already have a pair of clownfish to breed.
Water Quality & Filtration
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Strong air pump with airline tubing, get yours here
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Sponge filters, get it here (keep sponges in main display/sump to seed filters for hatch tanks by day 7)
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An ammonia detoxifier (sodium hydroxymethanesulfonate), we recommend Prime by Seachem
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Ammonia test kit or badge, we recommend the Ammonia Alert by Seachem
Feeding
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Premium feeds such as TDO by reef nutrition, Breeder Pack or Size A for fry and Size C2 for Broodstock
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High density culture of Live Marine Rotifers, (required until day 10-12)
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Live Phytoplankton or phytoplankton concentrate (to feed rotifers)
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When Will My Clownfish Eggs Hatch?
Clownfish eggs typically hatch about 8 to 12 days after they are laid, almost always during the night. This is usually around 1-2 hours after lights out. As hatching approaches, you’ll notice the eggs darken, and you might see silvery shimmer to the eggs, this is the eyes of the larvae. Hatch night is a critical time, so careful handling and preparation are key to success.
Hatch Night Preparation
When you suspect that your clownfish eggs may hatch soon, its time to prepare beforehand so you are ready for their arrival. For the hatching tanks, we will use 90-100% fresh saltwater at the same salinity and temperature as the Broodstock system. We will prepare this the night before the eggs hatch. When filling the tank with the fresh saltwater the night before, I will mark on the tank with a marker pen the water level I fill it to (this will usually be about 1/4 full or just above the height of a clay pot).
It is important to keep the water level lower the first couple of days so it is earlier for the fry to catch the food (rotifers) as they don't need to use as much energy hunting. The marker pen will help to keep track of your salinity as you will be able to easily see when your tank needs topping up with RO. It is also important to tint the water with phytoplankton so the fry's eyes are protected from the light and also so that your rotifers are always gut loaded for more nutrition.
When pulling the eggs on hatch night, we do this 30 minutes before lights out. Try and keep the eggs fully submerged where possible during transfer to reduce any issues that can be caused when they are exposed to air. We will then simply place this pot in the hatching tank with the air-stone gently bubbling against the eggs. It is important to get the bubbling just the right amount as too strong or to weak can cause fatalities. Try to mimic how the parents fan the eggs.
Finally, we will completely black out the tank on all sides with bin liners/bags and cello tape for the hatch. 30 minutes after lights out/blackout, the eggs will start hatching . Return after 2 hours, usually by this amount of time the fry that are due to hatch will have already. Set up your small light source and leave this on for 24/7 a day, slowly remove the top blackout cover and reveal your surprise!
Hatch Tank Setup
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24L–52L tank with lid that still allows for gas exchange but will reduce evaporation
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Clay pots or ceramic tiles for egg laying, plus a spare for swapping out, get yours here
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50w heater for each tank, we recommend the M50 Submersible Heater by Fluval
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Thermometer and Salinity Tester, we recommend the Digital Salinity Tester by Hanna Instruments
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Dim lighting unit with adjustable intensity controls, we recommend RGB Submersible Light by NICREW
Optimal Breeding Conditions
Breeding clownfish is one of the most rewarding yet challenging aspects of the hobby. Sourcing proven breeding pairs can be tricky, especially in the UK. Don’t worry! Any bonded male and female clownfish pair can spawn successfully. This process requires patience and in this hobby, patience almost always leads to great results.
For success, we recommend that your clownfish have been bonded for at least 4 to 8 months before attempting to breed. Age and size also play important roles: the female should be mature and larger, typically at least 2 years old to spawn reliably, while the male can be smaller and younger, with males as young as 6 months able to fertilize eggs.
At AdzAquatics, we advise keeping your tank temperature slightly higher than a typical reef aquarium, around 27–29°C. This temperature range mimics the warmer summer conditions in which clownfish naturally spawn in the wild. By simulating these conditions, you can encourage your pair to breed.
WARNING: Raising the temperature to this range can stress some reef corals and invertebrates that prefer cooler, more stable environments. If you maintain a mixed reef tank, carefully consider the tolerance of all inhabitants before increasing the temperature. Using a separate breeding or quarantine tank for spawning is often the safest option to protect your reef’s health.
Another key factor is nutrition. Make sure your clownfish are well-fed with a varied, nutritious diet. This not only helps them feel secure but also boosts their overall health and immune system—both crucial for successful breeding.
In 2023, we put these recommendations to the test with our own Tri-Color Storm clownfish. Raised from separate parents to prevent inbreeding... but kept together since the early days, we paired them under ideal breeding conditions and patiently awaited their first batch of eggs. Below, you’ll see our beautiful breeding pair. Meet Cinnamon & Pepper, shared below to give you a glimpse of the success you can achieve.
Cinnamon (Tri-Colour Storm) DOB: 2023 - Present Peppa (Tri Colour Storm) DOB: 2023 - Present
That's all we have for now, check back soon to find out more!
